June 19-24, 2024
Went to
Dean’s baseball game and he did very well on June 19. June 20- Friday, we checked out the Dimond
YMCA for access to exercise equipment.
We are thinking of getting 10 passes for $100.00 that can be used
anytime without expiration. We see our
neighborhood moose and it is looking for more food after the hard winter. It is solstice and Hillside sports center on
the side of the mountain is having an all-day celebration. We go up early and the mountain bikers are
having their time. We eat lunch on the
shaded patio and watch the bikers. Later
on, there will be live music and food trucks for more celebration. We go home to pack for our weekend trip.
Leaving
Saturday, June 22, at 9AM. Heading out
of Anchorage onto the Glenn Highway following the Matanuska River. We brief stop at Mat Glacier and take a few
pics. It looks like the glacier may have
surged; it looks like it is moving down further into the valley. We take the Lake Louise Road that is
difficult with lots of heave through muskeg, small pot ponds and large
lakes. The road gets better as we near
the Lodge. The structure has been added
on to with the original log structure still in place. Lake Louise is huge and
big all season rec area. A quick
libation and not staying long outside. Lots of standing water, lots of
bugs. Pass through Glennallen and short
visit to visitor’s center. Leave the
Glenn Highway and move down the Richardson Highway. Throughout the day we have excellent views of
all the semi-dormant volcanoes that are massive and hold glaciated fields. The highest are in the 16k plus elevations. We drive down the Edgerton Highway pass Kenny
Lake known for agriculture and exotic stock.
We pass a large field of yaks.
The valley tightens and the road gets a little rougher. We descend into the ‘ghost town’ of
Chitina. There is a national park office
here but rare year-round residents. We
really like the historic lodge from previous visit. But now closed. This is a rough climate in the winter. Today it is full summer at high 70’s –
80. This area is partly glacial silt and
volcanic ash and very dusty that infiltrates everything. They have cut a narrow single lane passage
through rock wall that opens to the Copper River. Dip netting is in full swing for red
(Sockeye) salmon. Some are in boats that
must have very strong engines given the fast current. Some people are wading out into the water
with 12ft poles with nets trying to catch.
We don’t see any native fish wheels today. People are tent camping everywhere with no
restrooms or water. There is a designated campground where RV etc. are camped
and some are on the river sand bar.
We’re glad we’re not here long, likely to become a wild scene
later. We cross the bridge over the
Copper River for more views. Then we
turn and reverse our course back to the Richardson and drive to the Copper
River Princess Lodge. The road beyond
the bridge goes to McCarthy and the Kennecott Mine. A recent landslide has made this precarious
road impassable. We drove it a few years
ago but the road is getting worse. We
have stayed at this Princess Lodge before and it is a very nice; much nicer
than anything we can get in Valdez. The
Ak pipeline runs nearby and the rivers are known for salmon fishing and many
are out for it. The pipeline actually
runs next to the Lodge property and we must drive over it. We are staying on dates with big price
reduction and they are taking 50% off the second night. Can’t beat it. Our views from hotel and room have a clear
view of three major area volcanoes.
Elusive Mt Blackburn at 16+k is clear as a bell and higher than all with
16k Mt Bona peeking between them. We sit
on the patio in rocking chairs, enjoying the views and warm breezes and no
bugs. The flowers and vegetable gardens
with giant rhubarb are impressive. We
have dinner in the restaurant, a collection of apps, soup and salad. Food was okay. Back on the patio watching people play
croquet, cornhole and shuffleboard. The
room has a king bed and nice bathroom.
No micro or fridge, we brought a cooler that is in the car. We are driving for the day in Valdez tomorrow
and will return to the Princess for the night.
As I sit here writing this blog it’s 11:30PM the sun is still
setting. We are so far north and at
longest days of the year, we are likely to have significant light all
night. The light is pink on the
mountains. As the daylight begins to dwindle it starts by a minute and then
more, eventually losing 6 minutes a day leading to September equinox until
winter solstice. It’s hard to pull the
curtains and block the view. But it’s
late and have day of more adventure tomorrow.
Up around
3AM and full sunrise. Birds are active
very early and late. Mountains pink in the light. Rising around 7AM and all in heavy fog. Sun burns off fog as the day advances. Some clouds form over all three mountains and
it looks to be raining on Mt. Blackburn.
But 10PM most clouds lifted and all mountains out again.
Spectacular
trip to Valdez, leaving around 9:30AM.
It’s already warm in the 70s. We
could take this same trip multiple times and never see these views. Lush foliage and trees, wild engorged rivers
and creeks, some with blue glacier dust.
Snow and glacial covered peaks etched against a clear blue sky. Everywhere we looked was a picture. We stop at Worthington Glacier that has
receded a lot since we first saw it in early 80’s. It’s early spring here with willow and alder
early leafing, paths are still partly snow covered and the water falls are
abundant. In fact, waterfalls are
everywhere on this trip. The area is
prone to high peaks with sheer walls that give way to many avalanches. We travel the valleys paralleling river just
feet from our car. We enter Thompson
Pass and there is snow everywhere including next to the road in big drifts. We descend into Keystone Canyon that is
breathtaking with it’s narrow cut through rock, just enough room for a two-lane
road and a swift moving creek. The
cliffs hang on a slant over the road.
The rock is layered and chunk, huge waterfalls fall from great heights
and water seeps through the rock. Seems
one day, one big chunk will let go and create monumental changes to the moving
water and road through way for Valdez.
We are entering Valdez on flat highway, with swift water flowing on both
sides. Valdez is ringed by a circle of
huge high craggy mountains with snow and glacier and sits on a bay. Valdez has been called the Switzerland of the
North. But we think Switzerland should
be called the Valdez of Europe minus the bay.
LOL. We eat our lunch from home
on a picnic table overlooking the harbor, filled with pleasure craft, kayaks
and professional fishing boats and charters.
We walk around town and look at some café menus, not impressed. It is 80+ degrees and sun is strong, if there
hadn’t been a refreshing breeze it would have been less comfortable. We visit the new Totem Hotel, very fancy and
very expensive. We stop to get pic of
Radio Shack; they are all over Alaska’s small towns. A shame we lost them in the lower 48. We find the Valdez Brewing Company and try a
beer which is very good. It’s a brand-new
building and a nice patio. We enter Orca
Gifts, a very surprising place chock full from floor to ceiling with very
authentic native collectables and art and gift items. We stop at Bear Paw campground gift shop,
nothing outstanding but it is the place we have camped at before. Back to the car, we go out of town as far as
the roads will take us which is not far as Valdez is the end of the road hemmed
by water and mountains. Surprised by the
very expensive looking properties sitting away from the central older town and
new subdivisions underway. No traffic
lights here, depending on stop signs and good behavior. Find a local artists coop in a cute decorated
tiny house. The local lady there spent
her life in Valdez and was there for 1964 earthquake now rated as a 9.4. We drive over to the fish processing plant
and try to find Peter Pan store for frozen and smoked fish. They don’t seem to be open anymore. The new port area is lovely and structured
for big public gatherings. We stop at
the other new port by the ferry terminal and it is very nice. We sit on the dock in chairs that are
provided and watch the water and various boats.
Across the bay is the terminal for the Ak pipeline, we have been
following the pipeline along the Richardson Highway, the crude oil is flowing
all the way from Prudhoe Bay. Tankers
come in and collect the crude oil for shipping.
Valdez is a very manual labor-oriented population given the kinds of
jobs centered here and many workers don’t live there full time. But there is a sense of pride and welcoming
amenities and beautification. On our way
out of town we try the road to the salmon fishery, it provides a view of the
town from across the bay and there is an area of oyster farming. At the dead end we are turned away as the
road leads to the high security of the oil terminus. The views going to Valdez were exceptional
but it is interesting if one can return via the same route the different views
one sees. With the high heat we have not
seen any animals. They have not had rain
for 2 weeks and fire danger is extremely high.
We return to Princess Lodge; the mountains are now out with some clouds
coming and going. We have a light dinner
and sit in the patio rocking chairs watching the Mt. Wrangell change with the
light. It’s after 10 PM and still full
light. Will leave the window open wide
and anticipate the same dead silence of last night and cooling breezes. All our plans have worked well so far and
it’s back to Anchorage tomorrow. The
cherry on the cake would be to hear wolves howling in the distance; one can
dream.
June 24
Took picture
of Mt Wrangell at 3AM, pink in low light.
Packed up and leaving the Wilderness Lodge, a nice stay and quick visit
to the gift shop with good prices and no sales tax. It’s sunny and 70’s, as we drive up the
Richardson, Mt Sanford appears and now see four of the volcanoes. Mt Drum is so thickly covered in ice it
shines in the sun. We take the short
alternative route through historic Copper Center with old buildings and museum,
we are traveling right next to the Copper River along this roadway. Back on the Richardson the road is good and
we say good-by to the volcanoes of the Wrangell Mountains and turn onto the
Glenn Highway in Glennallen. In the
distance we can see the Talkeetna Mountains and the Chugach with its elevations
and glaciers. Quick stop at Mat Glacier
and must pass through major road work.
Lunch at Mat Brewing in Palmer and stop at Visitors Center which is very
nice. They have a piano with sheet music
at the door, inviting anyone to play, and have marked with keys with the
notes. Always have a beautiful garden
area. Back in Anchorage in the 70’s and
sunny, the apartment is very warm, so need to air out.
Note: Seth found our basement dehumidifier hose had
come loose and thankfully had water in a confined area on the floor. At least it is purified water. He worked to
get it mopped and dried but found a basement window open. Did not appear to be a break in but very
strange. And our new side yard sod has
been dug up in places. mowers or critters, a mystery to be solved. Bless his heart, Seth has been taking good
care of us in our absence!
The Wrangle-St. Elias Mountains
