August 1. 2024
Left Anchorage at 9:15AM. Stopping off at Powell’s for an item to drop at Sherman. Partly cloudy and cool. The tunnel to Whittier was already open as it was an early time with our arrival at 10:15AM. Whittier rainy and low cloud cover, much snow still on mountains with large waterfalls emptying into the bay. We stop at Lazy Otter for coffee and have plenty of time until boarding. The ferry didn’t leave until 1:45PM. We found seats in the solarium area with open access but also covered seating. Once out into the PW Sound the clouds lifted, still partly cloudy, no rain and windy. Lots of snow still on lower peaks and high peaks in the distance. A beautiful cruise but very similar landscape to all other times on the water. Aurora ferry is small but does carry a number of vehicles, none of the big equipment vehicles or large RV. We arriving at 8:30 pm, so we have dinner on the ferry. Small dining area. Chuck with a roast pork dinner, Pat with cod and chips, both reasonably good and moderate price. Only saw one seal lion and some jumping salmon. Approach to Cordova more and more fishing boats are seen. Must navigate around small islands in order to reach the dock. We arrive at 8:30 PM in part cloud and warm, drive directly to the Orca Lodge. It sits at the end of paved highway with gravel and rutted road. It is a converted old cannery. It has a dining service known for gourmet cooking. It’s a large dining room with long tables for seating.
Our room overlooks Orca
Inlet with a covered porch. There is a
sauna and a fire pit. Excursions are
available for adventures and fishing.
The room is very large open space with two queen beds, a sitting area,
desk, fridge/freezer and microwave.
Good sized bathroom with a shower.
Room is very warm, turn down thermostat and put a box fan in front of
the window. It’s getting dark at night
now, the tide is going out. Tide pools
exposed and birds looking for food. Cordova as coastal town and Japanese current
has 165+ inches of rain a year. Trees
and stumps and stones are covered with Spanish moss, heavy dark Greek moss and
lichen. Winters can set snow records but
lessening over the years.
View from Aurora as we dock in Cordova
Views of our Orca lodge room and lodge grounds taken over several days
Whales Tale Coffee Shop
Can checkout cooking equipment at Library
Chuck working on puzzle at Library
Cordova still has a Radio Shack
Left Lodge around 8:30 AM.
We didn’t get the lodge breakfast as we
were not hungry, just coffee. Packed our
own lunch with food from home. Headed
out the Cordova Highway, leading into the Copper River Delta. Beautiful sunny warm day. Blueberry picking on the roadside. Amazing mountain views, many with snow and
some huge glaciers. The mountains with
steep vertical rising from flat sea level river valley/estuary. Road is okay half the 36 miles and then many
potholes and must go slow. We pass
through Eyak Corporation land onto US Forestry Service land. We pass over the Copper River and it is
incredible with all its braiding and power.
We have seen the river near its origins north, midway and now at the
delta/estuary where it enters PW Sound.
The vista of mighty river ringed by mountains is awesome. We come to the end of the road where the
bridge before us has a large portion washed out. We think it is the Childs Glacier which is
huge flowing out of the mountains into the river. Backtracking to the turn off for Alaganik
Slough. Crossing over estuary land
filled with small lakes, heavy low vegetation and surface water. Moose in the area are said to be the largest
in Alaska, they had to be transported in over 100 years ago and now
thriving. We sit at the boat ramp, a few
camping slots overlooking the Slough.
There is a boardwalk for viewing that is very pleasant. The great bird migration is over and while we
see signs of large animals in the area we don’t actually see any. Bears, wolves and moose. We set up out camp chairs and have a
picnic. It is warm, partly sunny, few
bugs. Back on the road we stop at
Sheridan Glacier trail road. In good
shape, few potholes. At the end of the
road we can see the face of a huge inland glacier through the trees. The path to its face and lake is 30 minutes
of sharp incline hiking. We take a few
pics and head back to Cordova. We stop
at Fleece store and Chuck picks up his new jacket. We stop at the Historical Museum to see
postal doors and are unable to get what we want to buy. Drive up to ski area and down around the
harbor. We find Baja Taco and knot Crazy
shop. We investigate the public docks
with available access. Back to the Lodge,
getting ready to have dinner here. The
Lodge main dining room is a wide-open space with a army barracks vibe. A preprinted limited menu was at our
seat. The waiter brought a pitcher of
ice water, homemade bread and butter. We
had salads to start, Sockeye salmon entrée with a black rice and broccoli. We didn’t care for the ‘lobster’ sauce on the
salmon that was cooked sous vide in olive oil.
The black rice was very chewy and the broccoli was nearly raw. A strange strawberry cheesecake for Chuck and
a good crème Brule for me. They were out
of the chocolate peanut butter cake. If
you wanted alcohol with your meal you had to bring your own. They had coffee, tea and soft drinks for
free. Near the end of our meal the staff
began to come in and eat their dinner.
Very egalitarian. Our food was
expensive. This is our first meal here
and thinking we’ll try the continental breakfast in the morning that is
included with our room. But we will find
another dinner location tomorrow night.
The air is cook and the sun is bright as it sinks in the west. We try to play Uno Flip and took a short walk
along the water. It’s been a full day
and a need for a good night’s rest. Pat
did not sleep well last night. Planning
some more out of town sites tomorrow. We
think we can hear a sea lion in the distance and a sea otter floats by.
August 4, 2024 last day in
Cordova
Awake after a very long
and peaceful sleep, missed Lodge breakfast.
Day is heavy overcast but spots of sun trying to shine through, it is
predicted to clear. Chuck runs into town
to the Little Bakery and picks ups a couple breakfast sandwiches on homemade
bread. Head out onto Lake Ave. leading
us around the edge of Lake Eyak. Glacial, snow and spring fed, it is a huge
lake nestled between high mountain peaks.
The road back is partly paved to the Ski House, a small log cabin for
public use and then the road narrows and becomes gravel with lots of pot
holes. We follow the road until its end
and past the end of the lake. There is a
fast-running river, coming through a chasm in the mountains with glacial and
other waters. The road balances between
lake edge and mountain sides. Many water
falls are coming down next to us from still significant snow melt. The forest is tall fir trees growing with
Spanish moss and thick ferns and moss-covered undergrowth. Worth the rough road to see these
sights. Proceeded out Wittshed Road to
Harney Bay. We drive to the end of the
road, so very rough gravel. Some homes
back here but the trees look wind swept, wonder what the weather is like. We are in full sun with slight breeze, an
exceptional weather day. We stop at the
Harney Bridge landing and put up our camp chairs at the water’s edge. There is a huge flock of seagulls and other
water birds in the shore. This is the
site of the huge spring bird migration.
Pink salmon are jumping out of the water trying to feed before they go
up stream to die. Some are on shore trying to hook and release them. We watch a pod of 10 seals emerge, chasing
the salmon in front of us. We think
there is at least one baby seal in the pack.
Head back to Cordova and visit the harbor area with the Lost at Sea
Fisherman statue. Then to the Reluctant
Fisherman deck overlooking the harbor, return trip with same waiter. Full sun, drinks, crab and artichoke dip and
tempura shrimp and split order of prime rib pitas. Back at Lodge getting ready to settle our
account and pack for tomorrow. We place
our camp chairs on the end of the long pier and watch over the water. There is a fast, rushing water fall coming
down the mountain. The gulls and oyster
catchers are putting on a show. Pat can
hear what sounds like a large male seal on the other side of the bay, barking
and growing from time to time. The sun is intense and bright. The Aurora ferry is sailing up the bay next
to us, it will be in port tonight and we will be on it tomorrow heading home to
Whittier. The tide is coming in, the
breeze is chilling and the sun is setting, time to go in. Tomorrow promises to
be another nice day in Cordova and we know we have enjoyed exceptional
weather. On Tuesday their rains
return. Hard to imagine what that is
like since we had so much sun, but the rain is the norm. We are packing our cases and gear tonight with
last minute in the morning. The ferry
port is only about 5 minutes driving from here. Must be in line for the ferry
by 6AM, departs 7AM. It will be time to
say farewell to Cordova. It’s been a
great time. Thank you!
Stream emptying into Lake Eyak and Lake Eyak
August 5, 2024 Leaving Cordova taking ferry to Whittier
Up early, 5:00 am, as we need to be inline for for ferry by 6:00 am. We leave the lodge by 5:30 am and drive to the bakery, but they are closed on Mondays, so we drive back to ferry terminal, check-in and get in our assigned lane. Do not have to wait long for loading to start and we are one of the first cars to be loaded, they have us back in to this long narrow lane on board, very tight. we exit car, take our stuff and head up to the solarium to find a seat. Once we depart Cordova the ferry heads into a fog bank that last for half of our trip to Whittier. Once the sun come out, we have a very pleasant trip, calm waters, no major wildlife sightings but we do see many glaciers and snow covered mountains. Arrive Whittier, one of the first to get off the ferry. We park and do some walking around, then drive up to the park to see if there are any jelly fish as there were several years ago. No jelly fish but a black bear come out and starts to do some fishing. He came close to us and other visitors, but was happy to continue fishing. we drive back into town and go to the Sea Salt shop and buy a few things, shop owner tells us about several black bears roaming the town and the bear we saw was most likely one of them. Go next door to Swiftwater cafe to have lunch. We both have the Halibut and shrimp combo platter, with a shared order of calamari. Both were excellent. We then head back to the tunnel, take a side detour to check out the new cruise ship terminal being built and then catch the tunnel opening and head back to Anchorage and our apartment, arrive just as the rain starts.
View of Orca Lodge as we depart Cordova
Black Bear fishing in Whittier
August 17 Nice Day, cloudy but warm. Drove to Girdwood in afternoon, sunny day. The traveling fresh seafood guy from Kodiak’s
truck is at the gas station. He only
comes into the area about once a month. This is his own catch, we pick up
frozen scallops and striped shrimp. Stopped at Girdwood Brewing and got snacks
from food trucks. Drove to Crow Creek
Mine, road still pot holed. Brenna and
Zach married here 10 years ago. They
moved the large building that we used to serve food and made it a welcome
center. Talked with proprietor and they
are not doing any more weddings. Now
camping and gold panning is their mainstay. Flowers are beautiful and other buildings
still intact. Back down the road to
Double Musky. Chuck getting Saturday
night prime rib, delicious. Pat getting
halibut and chips, delicious and desserts that are always good but no rhubarb
pie this time. Boo. Leave in full sun, nice drive back to
Anchorage where it is raining.
Crow Creek Mine
August 19 Monday Out to
lunch at new restaurant, Everest, on Old Seward across from New Sagaya. Food was very good, a little pricey for
Indian food. They have a buffet that is
clearly marked but we tend to avoid them.
This is renovated former large franchise restaurant, Pizza Hut? Tablecloths and cloth napkins. We see Indian people eating and speaking the
language, usually a sign that food is authentic and good. Staff have limited English. No patio, take out available. Most
restaurants are now pushing that option. Save for special treat. Chuck lamb, Pat Butter
chicken, seasoned rice, garlic naan, raita.
Samosa appetizer (2) were small but tasty with 2 sauces. Everything is expensive in Alaska during
tourist season and taxes apply to food everywhere. Anchorage and some other communities still do
not have sales tax on goods.
August 20 watched the reruns of first day of Dem Convention. Very exciting and moving. On to Boardwalk for a nice scenic waking, needed as Pat’s sciatic pain is much reduce, a full night’s sleep finally. On to O’Malley’s for driving range and late lunch. The day is sunny and cool. Fall is nipping at summer’s heals. Just hoping snow holds of on our return in the high country mid September. Animals should be very active as last-ditch feeding frenzy in preparation for winter.
Potters Marsh
Anchorage Golf Course
August 21 packed and on the road to Homer by 10AM. Day is gray and raining, such a contrast to yesterday. More reason to seize the day. Pouring rain all down the Seward Highway. Signs of early fall showing. Waterfalls off the sides of mountains coming partly from rain and partly from last winter’s snow that has not all melted. Stopped raining but gray and cloudy at Copper Landing. Stopped a brewery to check out their operation since opening in in just the past couple years. The Kenai river was running high and fair number of fishermen. Lots of new development of lodges among the old-timer places. Entering the wildlife area the fire from 5 years ago covering thousands of acres. Still prevalent. Drove through Soldotna onto the Kenai Spur road. We had not been in Kenai for many years. Not the greatest day with heavy rain and fog. But did get a good look at the area. The visitor center was beautiful with good displays and gift shop. Conoco Phillips money is very prevalent here from early oil discovery days. Drove over the flats near the end of Kenai river into the inlet. We stopped at the Flats Bistro and sat in the window over looking the flats. Sophisticated menu and atmosphere. Drove in the rain along the coast. Fog still prevalent and volcanoes not visible. Homer was dry and no wind. We checked into the Best Western Hotel where we have stayed before. This time we are in a far back building on the second floor, no elevator, outside staircase to room that opens onto the landing. The room is large with two queen beds, micro, frig/freezer, large screen TV and WiFi. We drive down to the Spit and park at a few places. There is no wind, it’s warm and water if flat. There are two people on boogie boards. The mountains are clearing and we can see the large glaciers across the bay. We visit a couple stores on the Spit. Back toward the town, sandhill cranes are gathering in their migration, lots of squawking. Watched Day 3 Dem Con.
Kenai
Homer hotel
August 22 Awake to sun and a cool wind. A full breakfast included. Stopped at Visitor’s Center where we always get good info. Millie Martin was working and she told us her story. From early Homer days they bought about 300 acres of land along Skyline Dr. She is bequeathing it as a state park that will support cross country skiing. Stopped at Two Sisters bakery in Old Town. They never change in their high quality baked goods, using a lot of local ingredients. Off to Winn Land Conservancy on Skyline Dr. We paid a fee. It is an old homestead that was bequeathed as conserved land. The original log cabin remains as part of the visitor’s center. They have nature programs and trails. We take the Dogwood trail through high alders and grasses and wild flowers and spruce and birch trees. It is sunny with cool breeze and no bugs. We forgot the bear bells so had to make noise. Trail was only about a mile but the tree roots made going difficult, trying to not trip and fall. Stopped at a high look out point down the road and it was the best ever we have seen. Unfortunately the mountains and glaciers across the bay were cloud covered but the town, Spit and bay were fully seen. On to East End Road and stopped at Evenline Trail, another conserved land area. Trail was easy. Tall grasses and no tree roots. Views of the ridges running north away from Homer, big ski area. Stopped at the Boatyard café. It’s usual busyness. Chuck got rock fish tacos and Pat a turkey sandwich (what was I thinking). Took the Calvin and Coyle Trail. Leading to the bog area around Beluga Lake. Wet trail walking on broads and negotiating tree routes. No wildlife signs on the bog, tough trail. Stopped at Homer Brewing to see what they are doing. Went through the car wash, much needed. Drove out to the Spit. High wind and huge waves crashing over the road. The shops sitting on pilons over the water were really taking a lot of pressure. Visited a few shops. Interesting stories at the high end native craft shop and the gold/jewelry store. Fairbanks family owned, make their own gold jewelry getting gold from their area’s miners. Back to the hotel, big day and tired. Made a meal of our bakery stop earlier and watched the 4th day Dem Con. Lots to do tomorrow so time for sleep.
August 23 Shops, Museums, art galleries. Awoke to part sun and breezy over mainland. Mountains across the bay are clouded, air is cool but sun is warm. First stop Center for Alaska Coastal Studies: learned what they do and found a few gift items. Next NOMAR, a local outdoor clothing and gear manufacturer, known for mesh bags. Next Ptarmigan Gallery and Fireweed Gallery next door. Nearly all Alaska artists, very diverse styles and materials. Next Alaska Salt Company, taken from evaporating Homer salt water; bought a variety of flavored salts. One is rhubarb. Next Art Gallery, visited in the past, carry Lavallee and Lisa Carlson. Very eclectic not all Ak product. Drove out to the Spit and visited the other side of the shops. Found a few things but careful about buying with 7% sales tax; warm, breezy, low surf. Shops on Spit closing early to mid September. Water gets turned off for winter. Visit Ak Maritime Museum, free entry. Very attractive facility and exhibits, have visited many times. Nest stop at Bunnell Art Gallery set in historic building in Old Town. Eclectic styles and materials but Ak artists, free entry. Early dinner at AJ’s Steakhouse in Old Town. Very specific about making and keeping reservations. Must provide cc to make reservation and strict about keeping it. Early dinner to make sure we get to theater on time. Baked brie app, huck with 14 oz prime rib, baked potato and asparagus, Pat got rock fish panko and chips. Good food, nice atmosphere with live music on Fridays. Arrive at Pier One Theater on the Spit for 7:30PM show. The show was 8-10 minute shows with original scripts, very entertaining and quality action. We had a brief delay when a woman in the audience fainted and was attended to, seemed to recover well. Had to walk across the parking lot to use a public restroom. Sold large cookies, popcorn, coffee and sodas. $20.00 per ticket. We have seen the red building for years but never went for a show; it is a very comfortable home grown theater with movable chairs seating, minimalist props/staging. A pianist played before and during the show. Drove back in twilight at 10PM for our last night at BW.
Slices: A Ten-Minute Play Festival
Path of Love
Coots Christmas
The Gospel According to
Karen
Morning Glory
Objection Seat
Waiting for the Dough
Leaving
But Where Would They Live
August 24. Awoke to overcast and cool wind. Drove out to the end of the Spit for a last look, the mountains across the bay are shaded and clearing. Stop off at the Farmer’s Market, pick up some local birch syrup and veg. On to the Pratt Museum, with a collection of historic and maritime info along with some sealife info and art gallery. There is a garden showcasing micro climates and indigenous plants. On up the Sterling highway to Copper Landing. Stop off at the old log cabin roadhouse Gwin’s for late lunch. Drive home into Anchorage in light rain.
August 29 Beautiful day at the Ak State Fair. Arrived at 11AM opening and left at 4PM. Visited various exhibits, including farm animals and giant pumpkins and crafts. The central floral display theme was a giant train engine and cars with Alaska animals inside all covered in flowers and other plants.
They do this every fair and best we have ever seen. Stopped to watch native performances and craft booths. Stopped at Ak Agri kiosk and bought authentic Alaska Grown sweatshirt gifts, Fred Meyers AG gifts not authentic to Ak Ag. Stopped at Howling Furs, Kenai, Company, bought a pair of Qiviut half gloves on sale. Chuck got fresh oysters from the fisherman and Pat got oyster Po’boy, yum. Left fair in sun and drove up to Hatcher Pass Lodge. Heavy clouds and wind, tried to sit out on balcony but too cold. Local beer and a piece of their always excellent homemade pie. Lodge has been making many improvements to the cabins, looks nice. Still funky and fun inside. Parasailers jumping off the mountain and blueberry picking. Stopped in Palmer on way back at Turkey Red. Highly regarded for cuisine. Atmosphere was open and light but also noisy without much ambiance. There was a bakery case but not impressive. We were seated along a wall close to other tables with no conversational privacy. Our waitress forgot our drink order, the spanakopita was burned on top and dry, homemade bread was not remarkable. Chuck liked his steak salad, Pat’s seafood penne pasta was very mundane. Left the restaurant unimpressed, there is better eating in Palmer and not pretentious.
Hatcher Pass
August 31 Drove to Girdwood in pouring rain to Fungus Festival. Tables of live mushrooms and displays held in the Community Room. Library/Community Room is beautiful setting. Met up with artist Joanna Perea and bought her Mt Eyak Blue print. We met her in Cordova art reception and fell in love with her wool art. The print was priced well for us and nice memento of our Cordova visit. Joanna is a very nice person and humble about her art. She lives in Wasilla but was visiting FF at the same time as us. Stop off at Girdwood Brewing. Big tour groups taking up the back room. We sat covered outside with a brew and delicious bagel sandwich from food truck. A visit to the artist collective and found some great cutting boards with original photographs. Sat in on Mushrooms 101 class, all of the event was free.
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